October 4, 2009 by Robin Plaskoff Horton
The Jardin Nomade, in the 11th arrondissement, opens its gates to neighborhood children.
The blister that has formed on the bottom of my left foot is a souvenir of my recent two days walking around Paris visiting some of the more than forty Jardins Partagés, or community gardens, belonging to a network governed by a program developed for and by the city on city-owned land. Main Verte (loosly translates to Green Hand, but we would say Green Thumb), the municipal association that coordinates these collective gardens, exists to support and encourage community gardening and education while fostering neighborhood social connection.
Under the the Main Verte charter, those who benefit from their participation in the garden network, must contribute back to the community by opening the gardens two half days per week to local students, retirees, and visitors from social centers and area businesses; exchange ideas and information with each other; and provide at least one public gardening event per season, like last weekend’s citywide Fête des Jardins. The gardeners adhere to specific environmental guidelines which include composting, harvesting rainwater for irrigation, and the use of only natural, non-chemical, pesticides and fertilizers. One Saturday per month, the group offers the opportunity to socialize, exchange ideas, and hear a presentation at one of the Cafés Jardins of the Maison du Jardinage in the Bercy neighborhood.
A young girl sorts through seeds in the Jardin Nomade.
During my visit to the Jardin Nomade on the rue Trousseau, neighborhood children were engaged in small garden projects while others just skipped around eying the various plantings. The garden’s representatives, Roselyne and Martine, welcomed me explaining there was a waiting list of 21 for one of the approximately 40-50 (1×1) meter plots at the site, in which each gardener is free to grow whatever they please, the only caveat being that it is illegal to sell what they produce. Prior to becoming a community garden, the lot had been empty for ten years, after the city took it over and demolished the building on it when the owner was unable to maintain and support it.
Neighbors look out their window to the garden below
Among the nearly 50 network gardens completed or currently under construction, there are those that have been designated educational gardens, at the disposal of local students for the duration of the school year, some as therapeutic gardens, some, like the Jardin Nomade, community gardens with individually gardened plots, while other community gardens are cultivated communally as one unified garden tended by the collective group.
In the adjacent 20th arrondissement, I visited two other gardens, Papilles et Papillons (“taste buds and butterflies”–doesn’t have the same ring in English) and the Jardin de Soupirs (Garden of Sighs.) The Jardin de Soupirs, the smaller of the two, is tucked away in a narrow alley up a steep flight of stairs off the rue des Pyrenées. Although much of its plantings were gone, it didn’t matter as I found such delight in just finding the hidden little treasure.
A scarecrow watches over the tucked away Jardin de Soupirs.
Ornamental grasses of various types grow tall this 20th arrondissement public garden
School had just let out when I walked through a neighborhood public garden between the rues Sorbier and de la Bidassoa (above), full of ornamental grasses swaying in the breeze and running children letting go of pent-up energy. I crossed the street and headed up the hilly rue Gasnier-Guy to Papilles et Papillons, not far from famed cemetery Père Lachaise where Jim Morrison and Edith Piaf, among other famous names, are buried. In the communal garden, created under the auspices of the Fondation Roi Baudouin, one finds a place to sit, a place to learn, a spot of land to cultivate healthy vegetables and herbs for the table, flowers for the pleasure of all and the vases of a few.
Flower and vegetable parcels in the Papilles et Papillons garden.
The colors of autumn in bloom at Papilles et Papillons.
Jardin Nomade (11e)
48, rue Trousseau at the corner of rue Delescluze
Metro: Ledru Rollin or Faidherbe Chaligny
Jardin de Soupirs (20e)
18 Passage de Soupirs, between rue de Pyrenées and rue de la Chine
Papilles et Papillons (20e)
3-5, rue Gasnier-Guy
Metro: Gambetta or Père Lachaise
Maison du Jardinage (12e)
41 rue Paul-Belmondo
Métro: Bercy, Cour Saint-Emilion
All photos copyright 2009 Robin Plaskoff Horton, Urban Gardens.
More tomorrow in my series of little-known Paris gardens and other wonderful finds…